Thursday, July 26, 2007

11:40 a.m. July 26, Bilge repair

Rick has taken matters into his own hands, literally. He's repairing our bilge pump, ensuring that Resonance won't sink if we develop a leak or hit a rock, which seems to happen a lot around here.

11:12 a.m., July 26, Shearwater Marina

Shearwater is home away from home. On Denny Island, halfway to Alaska it has everything the boater needs to survive. The largest building is the pub! We toured a 76 ton commercial fishing boat hours before it was dropped from a sling during haul out. Rick got into trouble with the ship's captain as he traded a micky of vodka for a 25 Lb salmon with one of the fishing crew. The mate got drunk (not Rick's fault) and caused a ruckus. Everyone here, it seems, has a boating problem and the marine store and mechanics can fix anything. We are waiting delivery of a new windlass as we are tired and scared of freefalling our anchor. Nice pub here and all the necessities of life (once the barge comes in on tuesday) Can't drink the water and Its not our fault that the best place to use internet is the pub.

10:22 a.m., July 23, Uncharted Rocks

Rick winds his way through the uncharted rocks around Hunter Island.

10:00 p.m., July 24, Salmon Dinner!!

Sharl caught dinner. It was tough going. After two hits that took her bait, she finally pulls in a fish but ah oh, the line broke. Luckily, Rick found the sinker caught on the outboard motor. Sharl reeled in the line by hand while Rick got the net ready, but then, oh no! The hook comes up but no fish. Rick looked down and the dumb fish had fallen right into his net! Its only a 5 lb Pink, but he'll do.

9:30 a.m., July 24, Lovely and truly "Fancy Cove"


The most beautiful anchorage in the world. And the sun is breaking through! I left out Frypan bay, where we stayed July 23, cause its just more rain.

4:25 p.m. July 21, Duncanby Resort

Don't stay here! Guests pay $3,000 per night. Those are the cottages on the left. They don't heat the lodge (on the right), not even in cold rainy weather. Internet costs $20 per day for each computer. We used the electricity all day but when it was time to shell out $100 for moorage we skeedattled!

11:00 a.m., July 20, Duncanby Landing

We spent a wild night in Goosebay as the storm passed through. Wind gusts of 45 km spun the boat around the anchor. Sharl forced Rick to wake up about 5:30 a.m. out of great fear of the howling wind, which you could hear approaching through the trees. This photo is not a black and white image. That's just how everything looks.

12:32 p.m., July 20, 'Round Dreaded Cape Caution

We left Skull Cove early, to go around Cape Caution, where many a worthy sailor has met terrible seas! A storm is fast approaching and we want a safe harbor. We sailed around the Cape, it was so calm we stopped to do a little fishing! No luck with fish but good luck with the Cape.

Wednesday, July 25, 2007

2:25 p.m. July 19, Port MacNeill to Skull Cove

After Andy and Dave left the rains came. We stayed in Port MacNeill a few days, doing laundry, reprovisioning. We sailed all the way across Queen Charlotte Straights in the rain with a mild wind to our starboard quarter. Spotted whales but that's not unusual. Easy sail. Sharl sat inside, out of the rain, and finished knitting up the front of Rick's sweater while Rick single handed the sailing. See the article "Beyond Nakwakto Rapids". Next year we would like to take the kids into this area and into the Belize Inlet!

3:07 p.m., July 13, Last sail to Port McNeill


Heading to Port McNeill so Andy and Dave can catch a seaplane back to Seattle. Dave was able to keep our tacks at 75 degrees (most tacks average around 90 degrees). Nice trip guys. Come anytime!

11:15 a.m. July 13, Pretty Joe Cove


Dave found beautiful Joe Cove. We could hardly leave this tranquil place. Spent hours exploring the shore.

10:00 a.m., July 12, Blunden Harbor crab fisherpeople


We enjoyed prawns for dinner at Tracy Harbor, where we spent the night. We require our guests to work onboard ship. We placed crab pots in Blunden Harbor on arrival. Happily Dave and Andy have found enough crabs for tonight's dinner in Joe Cove. Lots of Dungeness Crab tonight! Blunden Harbor always gives us a good feast.

3:20 p.m. July 9, Prawns!

Good thing Rick and I set the prawn trap before going into Greenway. We have enough prawns for our first dinner with A & D. Rick will show Andy how to decapitate the tasty darlings.

12:02 p.m. July 9, 2007, Andy and Dave arrive on time


Oh Boy! Andy and Dave arrive by seaplane and are ready to go. Let the adventure begin! I wish I'd been able to buy a few more provisions. All we have is a pound of ground beef and a lot of cheese. We'll have to catch our dinner or eat beans and macaroni.

Sunday, July 8, 2007

10:22 a.m., July 8, Greenway Sound, Broughton Island

Greenway Sound Marina, at the north end of Broughton Island, is an old favorite. Great restaurant, which requires reservations days in advance, all the water and necessities for continuing adventure. We are moored up next to the floatplane dock, where our friends, Andy and Dave are scheduled to arrive tomorrow at noon. We'll see . . . By the way, Greenway is for sale, if you are Canadian. See the link, Greenway Sound Marine Resort.

4:40 p.m., July 6, Charlotte kicks up!


Oh Boy! After a great sail in Johnstone Straight, we hit the Queen Charlotte Straight. We had planned to sail straight across to Wells Passage but rising winds hitting 25 knots drove us into retreat, literally, into Retreat Passage! We sought a safe anchorage at Waddington Bay in Bonwick Island, but this is the first time we've ever seen white caps in an anchorage. Rick set the anchor alarm. By morning the little primeval bay was quiet and the water inky smooth.

7:30 a.m., July 6, Facing the dreaded Johnstone Straight

After three wonderful days at Shoal Bay, Rick and I gathered in the crab pot for the last time, deposted four nice keepers into Mark's crab hotel, and pulled up anchor. Rick had calculated just the right starting time to make it safely through the Greene Point Rapids and the Whirlpool Rapids. Winds were building, and we could see white caps in Sunderland Channel, which, they say, if Sunderland has white caps, its blowing like stink in Johnstone Straight. Hearing a report of "gale force winds" in Johnstone Straight, we decided to pull into Forward Harbor and wait for morning, when the winds are sure to die down. Rick had to ask another "mad anchorer" to pull up anchor up and move but otherwise we had a peaceful evening. We woke at 5:45 and were underway by 6:00 a.m. to avoid the dreaded winds of Johnstone Straight. It was wild at the throat of Sunderland but then we had a fantastic sail, using only the gib, all the way to the Queen Charlotte Straight. We heard via VHF that our mad anchoring neighbor wouldn't leave Forward Harbor for fear of the wind and waves in the Straight. Had he dared, he would have found Johnstone quite tame.

Tuesday, July 3, 2007

8:40 p.m. July 2, Coming back to Shoal Bay and the view from the pub


If there is a more wonderful place on Earth, neither Rick nor I know where it is. Want to enjoy it too? Click on "Wonderful Diary of Marc MacDonald" under Links of Interest.

Sunday, July 1, 2007

3:55 p.m., June 30 Art display Cortes Island

Instead of flags, this is the wind sock display of a local Cortes resident. If ever you long for the 60's, Cortes is your place!

12:48 p.m., June 30 Doh!—Market open on Fridays not Saturdays

Well, we blew it. The market is on Friday, not Saturday. We'll just have to be happy with the wild raspberries we find along the road.

10:34 a.m., June 30 Biking to Cortes Market

Can't wait to return the Cortes outdoor market at Manson's Landing, where we had great pie and bought local llama wool last year. Rick must first assemble our bikes, which we store at the bottom of the locker and bring ashore by dingy. Lots of work but worth the trouble, we hope.

7:15 p.m., June 29 Wild ride to Cortes Island!

Rick battled a grumpy sea for hours. We made good time anyway, with a strong wind pushing us from behind the whole day . . . Always look for the rainbow after the storm.